Friday, May 14, 2010

The Poor Mans DMT Extraction Guide

The Poor Mans DMT Extraction Guide - A 100% Fat Free, Food Safe, Grocery Store Solution to DMT Extraction
by Spiceman

Several members here at the nexus have been asking me for sometime now to give this method of extraction a write up. It has been criticized by some, but for a fact this method of DMT extraction is exceedingly easy, and yes, it works. We will be using mimosa hostilis root bark in this procedure.

Keep in mind, this is not the advanced clandestine chemist’s ideal method of extracting DMT, however, this method will prove invaluable to the person who finds him/herself in a position of not being able to procure solvents or chemicals that the ideal methods would call for. Also, it will no doubt be a valuable tool to those who want a completely food-safe extration. Lastly, this is for those who are new to this field, and who feel unsure about using or even attempting to procure chemicals such as naptha or lye.

The real beauty of this tek is that you probably already have everything you need to extract either freebase or a salt of DMT right there in your kitchen cabinet. If not, you can buy everything you need at your local corner grocery store. This tek, although making use of sometimes even the fattiest and crudest solvents, yeilds a 100% fat and oil free product. The final product, every time, will be fine snow-white crystals or snow-white crystalline powder (if freebased, certain salts are hygroscopic and are always in a gooey state. Also, every type of oil has not been tried, so it’s possible that diffrent oils could pick up other alkaloids "jungle" that will tint the end product.) This tek is workable and almost impossible to screw up by even the most chemistry-naive extractor.

Although somewhat void of exact amounts, volumes, and measurements, it should give a strong enough general overview to carry anyone through.

What you'll need:

Sodium carbonate (washing soda) This is a stronger base than baking soda but can be made by baking baking soda itself in the oven at about 350° for a couple hours to make sodium carbonate. It can also be purchased in most grocery stores right beside the baking soda, labelled as washing soda.

Note: Lime, aka calcium carbonate may also be used to work with this tek. Keep everything the same and simply substitute lime for the soda if so desired. Results will be the same.

90% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, ethyl alcohol, or acetone, (methyl works but voids the food safe aspect, however it is completely safe if evapporated entirely.) Less than 90% alcohol will also work, but will result in small amounts of sodium carbonate remaining in the end product. This is completely harmless, and can be cleaned by repeating the process a few times. Acetone is prefferable here.

Any type of vegetable oil – Canola oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, etc. A mixture of these will work as well, (even lard—aka animal fats—would work here if kept hot). All of the above oils have been tested and did an excellent job of dissolving freebase DMT. The only oils used "fully" in the procedure was canola oil, sunflower oil, mixed vegetable oil, and hot lard. All of them passed with flying colors. The lard actually worked beautifully, but you have to keep it hot. Traditional solvents—naptha, ether, etc. —work great here but voids the food-safe aspect. If you want to use them, you can.

Some type of acid – Such as lemon juice, vinegar, vitamin c, etc.

Procedure:

Mix 1 gram of sodium carbonate for every gram of powdered mimosa hostilis root bark you have in a large glass or metal pan (glass is better). Slowly add water to the bark and carbonate mixture while stirring, until a thin pasty consistency is achieved. At this point, we have to ensure the reaction can take place smoothly, and that the heat can flow through the mixture somewhat evenly, by adding enough water. At the same time, we want to keep it a little on the thick side (basically, it’s easier to handle this way). Just eyeball it. The consistency of thin oatmeal is perfect.

What you should have now is a somewhat thick sludge made up of water, bark powder, and sodium carbonate. For every 50 grams of bark used, add ½ cup of your vegetable oil to this mix. Set this mixture on low heat and bring up the temperature until it is hot, and steams when stirred.

This mixture should be kept hot, but should not boil. Once it is hot, maintain the temperature for 1-2 hours. During that time, the mixture should be well and very gently stirred every few minutes. Water should be periodically added to maintain the consistency of the sludge. Just don't let it dry out, you want it to have the same moisture content during the entire process. The heat, time, and agitation during this phase spurs on the reaction, ensuring that the weak base actually does the work and freebases all the alkaloids.
Note: If you think you got your original sludge too thin by adding too much water at any point, you can use the above phase to reduce it. If it’s too thin, allow it to "steep" until the desired consistency is reached.
Mix up some acidic water. For every gallon of water, add 1.5 cups of vinegar or 1 cup lemon juice, and measure out an equal amount of this acidic water for the amount of oil that you have. If you have 2.5 cups oil, you'll need 2.5 cups acidic water, a little more won’t hurt, but probably wont help either.

When at least an hour has passed (two can’t really hurt), then use something like a turkey baster/dropper type device to remove the oil and add it to your acidified water. If your sludge is thick enough you can probably pour the oil off. Stir gently for several minutes. The goodies will attach to the acid in the water forming that particular salt, migrating to the water, leaving the oil on top.

After several minutes of mixing with the acidic water, the oil is removed and added back to the original basic bark mixture. This process is repeated a total of three times, each time using the same oil and each time "steeping" for an hour or so. Also, each time the oil is removed, fresh acidic water is used, and at the end, combined.
If a salt of DMT is desired, say for oral use, then at this point after the oil is removed, the water should be allowed to evaporate and the remaining material washed with acetone to yeild beautiful salted DMT crystals.
If freebase DMT is the goal, then at this point the acidic water is made basic by adding more of our sodium carbonate. I'd say about a cup for every three cups acidic water you have should do it.

The water is now evaporated. This proccess is slow and requires a bit of patience if you are doing a larger extraction. Use a small fan and apply low heat to speed up the evaporation proccess. At this point you will be left with freebase DMT and “washing soda”. This material is scraped up and placed into a small dish.

Here, one must retrieve the freebase DMT from the washing soda. There are several ways of doing this. Acetone is prefferable here, however most people don't have acetone handy. Instead, we can use high proof alcohol. 90% isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) will do great here and is available at your local Wal-Mart. 70% can be used but keep in mind that the 30% water present will carry over a good amount of the washing soda. This, of course, is completely harmless but undesirable. This can be somewhat remedied by repeating the washes with alcohol.

Completely dissolve the powder in acetone, rubbing alcohol or high proof whiskey (anything other than Everclear will leave a taste). The washing soda will be left behind, and at this point your goodies are dissolved in the acetone or whatever solvent you used here. Collect the liquid, being careful to leave the washing soda powder behind. Rinse this powder three times and combine the liquid from all three rinses.

Use a small fan to quickly evaperate the combined solvent rinses to leave behind beautifully white DMT crystals, if a good solvent was used at the end. A small amount of washing soda are the only impurities that could be present. The weaker your alcohol (if used in place of acetone), the more washing soda will be pulled along with the DMT. Harmless, but indeed undesirable. 90% rubbing alcohol from Wal-Mart or the dollar store (at least in the states) will do just fine.

The purity of the end product can be improved by redissolving in solvent and leaving behind anything insoluble, and re-evaporating to leave behind purer crystals each time.

This certainly is not the best method for extracting DMT, as was previously stated. However, it does work. This now makes it possible for many people who would not, or could not previously attempt an extraction—for any of several reasons—to now do so. Thanks to those who inspired me to write this up, you know who you are! Peace and Godspeed!

DMT Extraction from Mimosa Hostilis Rootbark

DMT Extraction from Mimosa Hostilis Rootbark
by Marsofold

Text in italic was added from a person under the handle "Central Scrutinizer", which I found to be helpful.

Items Needed:

1. Blender
2. One Pound Mimosa Hostilis Rootbark
3. White Vinegar
4. Three Liter Crockpot
5. One Gallon Plastic Jug
6. One Gallon Glass or Stainless Steel Wide-Mouthed Container
7. One Gallon Glass Wine Jug
8. Lye Crystals
9. Varnish Maker’s and Painter’s Naptha
10. Glass Turkey Baster
11. Large Glass Baking Pan
12. Cellophane
13. Pair of Single-Edged Razor Blades
14. Funnel
15. Coffee Filter
16. Non-Soapy, Clear Ammonium Hydroxide
Q: Would this extraction work for reed canary grass (Phalaris arundinacea), assuming you wanted 5-MeO-DMT?
A: It certainly would! If you plan on doing it, remember that there's only 0.02% DMT in Phalaris, so you’re going to need a hell of a lot. Also, it would be best to do around 3 defats after the acid water.
Break 1 pound of Mimosa Hostilis rootbark into 1" pieces using new heavy-duty wire cutters, then grind it all up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time. Grind the rootbark up to 1mm in diameter or smaller. Finer is better.

Polar Extraction: Premix in an empty 1 gallon plastic jug: 1 quart white vinegar & 3 quarts water. Put the ground up Mimosa in a 3 liter crockpot, then fill it with the water/vinegar solution. Stir well and turn it on "high." After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off most of the liquid into a 1 gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container. Add the remaining water/vinegar solution to the crockpot again. Stir well and turn it on "high." After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again. Discard the rootbark fiber and save the two combined extractions in the 1 gallon container. Allow the vegetable particles in the extraction in the 1 gallon container to settle to the bottom overnight. Then pour off the liquid into an empty 1 gallon glass wine jug, being careful not to pour off any of the vegetable sludge at the bottom. Discard the sludge and keep the contents of the wine jug. Use three water-vinegar extractions rather than two. Divide up the water-vinegar mix so that you roughly use 50% for the first extraction, 25% for the second, and 25% for the third extraction. After the last extraction press out the fiber to squeeze the last bit of liquid from it.

Basification: Premix a solution of: 5 heaping tablespoons (70grams) of lye (Lowes Hardware, item # 146450, "Roebic Crystal Drain Opener") very slowly added to 1 pint of warm water, and stir well. Slowly add this solution to the wine jug, then cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute to mix. Basify to a ph of 13. If you don't have ph papers, basify till it turns black, then add an additional 25% of whatever amount of basification solution you used. This is to guarantee that you're at a ph of 13. The brown foam you see floating on top of the basified extract after tilting the jug should flatten out to a thickness of no more than 1/2" after 45 minutes or so if you've used enough lye. Add a bit more lye and re-tilt if it's thicker than that.

Non-polar Extraction: Add 275ml of (Ace Hardware) VM&P Naptha to the wine jug. Add exactly enough warm water to the jug to raise the liquid level to an inch below the top. Cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug slowly back and forth for 5 full minutes to mix the contents. Allow the jug to sit undisturbed on a table for at least 3 hours. There should now be two layers visible in the jug, a lower dark one and a smaller clear one on top filling the neck of the jug. Use a glass turkey baster to suck up the top clear layer into a large glass baking pan. Be very careful not to suck up any of the lower brown foam/black liquid layer.

Freeze-Precipitation: Cover the glass baking pan with plastic wrap and place it in a freezer for 3 days to precipitate the DMT crystals. Remove the pan from the freezer and quickly lift the plastic wrap from a corner of the pan. Tilt the pan and slowly pour off all of the naptha through the exposed corner, being careful not to dislodge the crystals stuck to the bottom of the pan. Re-seal the corner of the pan by stretching the plastic wrap back over it. Allow several hours for the pan to reach room temperature, then remove all of the plastic wrap. Allow the crystals in the pan to completely dry out overnight in a cool place. Then use a pair of single-edged razor blades to scrape up the impure DMT crystals. The freeze-precipitation technique is a double-edged sword. Very convenient and high quality, but highly dependent upon knowing the approximate amount of DMT expected to be precipitated. If you use too much naptha, then only a little bit precipitates out. If you use too little, then it doesn't extract it all out of solution. It is the simplest case of re-crystallization. The best way using it if you aren't very sure of the yield is to use a slight excess to extract, then evaporate it down to 10% of the original volume. THEN freeze it. This will pretty much guarantee excellent results. For example: For a pound of rootbark use 500 milliliters of naptha to extract. Then evaporate it down to 50 milliliters. Then freeze it and filter out the crystals. By the way, you must very quickly filter it within a minute or two after removal from the freezer so it doesn't have any time to warm up. And your freezer can't be marginally cold. If it doesn't freeze ice cream HARD, then it isn't cold enough. -20C is about where it should be.

Ammonia Wash: Prepare a filter setup by placing a funnel into a quart jar and putting a small coffee filter paper into the funnel. Place the impure DMT crystals into the filter paper. Be sure that the crystals are absolutely dry before proceeding to the next step. Chill a bottle of non-soapy, clear ammonium hydroxide (Ace Hardware, "Janitorial Strength Ammonia") in a refrigerator. Slowly pour 35ml of the cold ammonia over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them. Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals to completely dry out. You will now have 2-1/2 grams of white crystal DMT. Mix it with some dried parsley and smoke a little in your favorite pipe!


Thursday, May 13, 2010

LSA Extraction

LSA Extraction from Morning Glory Seeds 
by Stretchman

LSA is a naturally occurring psychedelic found in many plants such as morning glory and hawaiian baby woodrose seeds. It is chemically similar to LSD, but with slightly similar effects. In this article you can learn how to extract this component from the seeds of the common garden "pest", morning glory.
Acquire a large quantity of morning glory seeds. Keep in mind that 500 seeds equal one decent dose. Experiment on your own to find the gram/seed ratio which I have long since forgotten. Therefore, supply yourself accordingly (this could get expensive unless you grow your own). The following seeds have been used to awesome effect:

  • Heavenly Blue
  • Pearly Gates
  • Flying Saucers

Choose organically grown! Either that or spend a long time washing your seeds with dish soap, and that method is not exactly foolproof for ridding your seeds of any extracurricular poisons the nice people at the seed company have seen fit to include.

Also invest in some Petroleum Ether. This goes by the name of Naptha/Naphtha or Varnish Maker’s and Painter's Naphtha, available (last I checked) at [large hardware store] and other places. Not to be confused with diethyl ether, which is some bad shit, has to be disposed of by the bomb squad, etc. Don't fuck with that, get yourself some "pet. ether". Ostensibly free from adulterants, pet. ether is a handy solvent to have around the house.

Now, get a hold of the highest proof alcohol you can possibly obtain. Clear Spring grain alcohol is one of my favorites (180 proof) but the quality of the end product rests upon the highest proof alcohol you can get your hands on! Reagent grade ethanol, or some 200 proof shit from some reputable moonshiner (better make damn sure he/she's reputable, don't want lead poisoning from some refurbished auto part that has found new life as part of someone's still). On a related note, I wouldn’t recommend 151 Rum over a 100 proof beverage as rum has other shit dissolved in it that makes an extraction with 151 undesirable. Bigger is better, get some 180+ proof alcohol and go nuts, peoples. No half-measures here.

Procedure:

1. Grind seeds to powder. If you have an espresso grinder, awesome. I have had reasonable success with a regular coffee grinder. Pulse at no more than ten seconds at a time, (due to heat, and wear and tear on the machine), shaking during grind so that all the particles are evenly ground. Grind as fine as possible!

2. Place the seed powder into a Jar #1. Cover with petroleum ether. The guideline here is "can't use too much (petroleum ether), can use too little." 500 ml/500 seeds seems to be the basic rule, although a little extra ether can't hurt.

3. Put the lid on the jar and shake like crazy. Let sit for 20 minutes, shaking as much as you see fit.

4. Shake jar, then filter contents of the jar by pouring through a coffee filter into Jar #2. I find a strainer (with a diameter of 6" or so, equipped with coffee filter) useful.

5. If you like, save the filtered ether. You can get at least five more processing cycles out of it. Just don't drink it, please, for fuck's sake.

Most importantly, save the filter paper with seed powder on it!

6. Let the filter with the seed powder in it dry thoroughly. This could take several days.

7. In the interim, clean Jar #1 thoroughly.

8. Once the seed powder has dried, transfer this to the sparkly-clean Jar #1. Add 2-3oz. of alcohol per 500 seeds. Let this sit for three days, shake it if you like.

9. Filter the resulting substance. Discard the seed powder on the filter. Keep the alcoholic liquid for use.

Results:

The remaining liquid is what is known as tincture. 1-2oz. is standard for a decent mind-opening trip.

Author’s Notes:

The liquid extract will result in a wild, lucid trip, sort of like LSD but more visual. It is quite possible to do some intense reading on this plant; i.e. The Oxford Book of English Verse or Jung's Man and His Symbols. I remember dosing at night, and looking at the Xmas tree with wonder. I was also intrigued by the concept of circles, and toyed with the idea of rearranging the living room furniture into a circle. This plant gives you some strong-ass feng-shui. However, the prime time for this particular plant ally is morning. So, if you are still awake tripping, the sunlight streaming from the window will do magical things. My source says to dose at dawn for maximum communion with this fascinating plant.

To clarify, the LSAs as I have prepared them, are every bit as ragingly rugged as good old LSD, perhaps more so! The cleanness and the exceptional lucidity of the trip would make this, in my opinion, the ideal substance for the psychedelic neophyte. Either that or I just get along extraordinarily well with this particular plant.