Friday, May 14, 2010

The Poor Mans DMT Extraction Guide

The Poor Mans DMT Extraction Guide - A 100% Fat Free, Food Safe, Grocery Store Solution to DMT Extraction
by Spiceman

Several members here at the nexus have been asking me for sometime now to give this method of extraction a write up. It has been criticized by some, but for a fact this method of DMT extraction is exceedingly easy, and yes, it works. We will be using mimosa hostilis root bark in this procedure.

Keep in mind, this is not the advanced clandestine chemist’s ideal method of extracting DMT, however, this method will prove invaluable to the person who finds him/herself in a position of not being able to procure solvents or chemicals that the ideal methods would call for. Also, it will no doubt be a valuable tool to those who want a completely food-safe extration. Lastly, this is for those who are new to this field, and who feel unsure about using or even attempting to procure chemicals such as naptha or lye.

The real beauty of this tek is that you probably already have everything you need to extract either freebase or a salt of DMT right there in your kitchen cabinet. If not, you can buy everything you need at your local corner grocery store. This tek, although making use of sometimes even the fattiest and crudest solvents, yeilds a 100% fat and oil free product. The final product, every time, will be fine snow-white crystals or snow-white crystalline powder (if freebased, certain salts are hygroscopic and are always in a gooey state. Also, every type of oil has not been tried, so it’s possible that diffrent oils could pick up other alkaloids "jungle" that will tint the end product.) This tek is workable and almost impossible to screw up by even the most chemistry-naive extractor.

Although somewhat void of exact amounts, volumes, and measurements, it should give a strong enough general overview to carry anyone through.

What you'll need:

Sodium carbonate (washing soda) This is a stronger base than baking soda but can be made by baking baking soda itself in the oven at about 350° for a couple hours to make sodium carbonate. It can also be purchased in most grocery stores right beside the baking soda, labelled as washing soda.

Note: Lime, aka calcium carbonate may also be used to work with this tek. Keep everything the same and simply substitute lime for the soda if so desired. Results will be the same.

90% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, ethyl alcohol, or acetone, (methyl works but voids the food safe aspect, however it is completely safe if evapporated entirely.) Less than 90% alcohol will also work, but will result in small amounts of sodium carbonate remaining in the end product. This is completely harmless, and can be cleaned by repeating the process a few times. Acetone is prefferable here.

Any type of vegetable oil – Canola oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, etc. A mixture of these will work as well, (even lard—aka animal fats—would work here if kept hot). All of the above oils have been tested and did an excellent job of dissolving freebase DMT. The only oils used "fully" in the procedure was canola oil, sunflower oil, mixed vegetable oil, and hot lard. All of them passed with flying colors. The lard actually worked beautifully, but you have to keep it hot. Traditional solvents—naptha, ether, etc. —work great here but voids the food-safe aspect. If you want to use them, you can.

Some type of acid – Such as lemon juice, vinegar, vitamin c, etc.

Procedure:

Mix 1 gram of sodium carbonate for every gram of powdered mimosa hostilis root bark you have in a large glass or metal pan (glass is better). Slowly add water to the bark and carbonate mixture while stirring, until a thin pasty consistency is achieved. At this point, we have to ensure the reaction can take place smoothly, and that the heat can flow through the mixture somewhat evenly, by adding enough water. At the same time, we want to keep it a little on the thick side (basically, it’s easier to handle this way). Just eyeball it. The consistency of thin oatmeal is perfect.

What you should have now is a somewhat thick sludge made up of water, bark powder, and sodium carbonate. For every 50 grams of bark used, add ½ cup of your vegetable oil to this mix. Set this mixture on low heat and bring up the temperature until it is hot, and steams when stirred.

This mixture should be kept hot, but should not boil. Once it is hot, maintain the temperature for 1-2 hours. During that time, the mixture should be well and very gently stirred every few minutes. Water should be periodically added to maintain the consistency of the sludge. Just don't let it dry out, you want it to have the same moisture content during the entire process. The heat, time, and agitation during this phase spurs on the reaction, ensuring that the weak base actually does the work and freebases all the alkaloids.
Note: If you think you got your original sludge too thin by adding too much water at any point, you can use the above phase to reduce it. If it’s too thin, allow it to "steep" until the desired consistency is reached.
Mix up some acidic water. For every gallon of water, add 1.5 cups of vinegar or 1 cup lemon juice, and measure out an equal amount of this acidic water for the amount of oil that you have. If you have 2.5 cups oil, you'll need 2.5 cups acidic water, a little more won’t hurt, but probably wont help either.

When at least an hour has passed (two can’t really hurt), then use something like a turkey baster/dropper type device to remove the oil and add it to your acidified water. If your sludge is thick enough you can probably pour the oil off. Stir gently for several minutes. The goodies will attach to the acid in the water forming that particular salt, migrating to the water, leaving the oil on top.

After several minutes of mixing with the acidic water, the oil is removed and added back to the original basic bark mixture. This process is repeated a total of three times, each time using the same oil and each time "steeping" for an hour or so. Also, each time the oil is removed, fresh acidic water is used, and at the end, combined.
If a salt of DMT is desired, say for oral use, then at this point after the oil is removed, the water should be allowed to evaporate and the remaining material washed with acetone to yeild beautiful salted DMT crystals.
If freebase DMT is the goal, then at this point the acidic water is made basic by adding more of our sodium carbonate. I'd say about a cup for every three cups acidic water you have should do it.

The water is now evaporated. This proccess is slow and requires a bit of patience if you are doing a larger extraction. Use a small fan and apply low heat to speed up the evaporation proccess. At this point you will be left with freebase DMT and “washing soda”. This material is scraped up and placed into a small dish.

Here, one must retrieve the freebase DMT from the washing soda. There are several ways of doing this. Acetone is prefferable here, however most people don't have acetone handy. Instead, we can use high proof alcohol. 90% isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) will do great here and is available at your local Wal-Mart. 70% can be used but keep in mind that the 30% water present will carry over a good amount of the washing soda. This, of course, is completely harmless but undesirable. This can be somewhat remedied by repeating the washes with alcohol.

Completely dissolve the powder in acetone, rubbing alcohol or high proof whiskey (anything other than Everclear will leave a taste). The washing soda will be left behind, and at this point your goodies are dissolved in the acetone or whatever solvent you used here. Collect the liquid, being careful to leave the washing soda powder behind. Rinse this powder three times and combine the liquid from all three rinses.

Use a small fan to quickly evaperate the combined solvent rinses to leave behind beautifully white DMT crystals, if a good solvent was used at the end. A small amount of washing soda are the only impurities that could be present. The weaker your alcohol (if used in place of acetone), the more washing soda will be pulled along with the DMT. Harmless, but indeed undesirable. 90% rubbing alcohol from Wal-Mart or the dollar store (at least in the states) will do just fine.

The purity of the end product can be improved by redissolving in solvent and leaving behind anything insoluble, and re-evaporating to leave behind purer crystals each time.

This certainly is not the best method for extracting DMT, as was previously stated. However, it does work. This now makes it possible for many people who would not, or could not previously attempt an extraction—for any of several reasons—to now do so. Thanks to those who inspired me to write this up, you know who you are! Peace and Godspeed!

116 comments:

  1. You do not specify the bark used here.

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  2. You're right, thanks. Corrected.

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    1. Sir before doing the 2nd and 3rd oil extraction, do I need to steep it under a low flame? If not, do I need to mix the added oil and the bark mixture?


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    2. Mix and heat pal, that helps extraction

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  3. if swim uses 50 grams of bark what would be my possible yield using this tec............. and by the way thanx a billion ...alot of good karma coming your way :)

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    1. I saw on reddit someone did it with 100g of acacia, and got back 2g of dmt after the first extraction.

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  4. if thats not enough how much would 100 grams of bark yield....thnx again

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  5. Could phalaris arundinacea be substituted for the bark?

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    1. Considering it does contain DMT as well as 5-MeO-DMT, yes; but most of the time phalaris arundinacea contains below worthwhile concentrations of said chemicals.

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  7. Could Acacia Confusa be substituted for MHRB? I assume yes.

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    1. Yes, Acacia Confusa can be used as a replacement. I have been doing so ever since the big bust. But the yields are lower, I've had to go from 100g MHRB to 200g ACRB to get the same yield. But it does work.

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  8. does it say in here how many grams are produced for each amount of bark?

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  9. I'm wondering if you are supposed to stir the dry material with acetone in the washing step. If you stir too much will the sodium carbonate dissolve? I was also curious if you put the acetone solution in the freezer would the dmt precipitate out of the solution like it does with the naptha method? If that worked you could remove most of the acetone making the evaporation process much shorter time wise.

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  10. Does the freebase precipitate from the aqueous solution after adding the base? If so would it not be easier to filter and wash with water, or does this give a lower yield?

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    1. Apparently not. That would be simple if it did but the solubility is too high with that much water

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  11. Hey great job on tech God Bless You! Any updates since published besides MHRB not being available? With that said since im doubling plant material should I double everything? Also and good links on a 5meo extract would be greatly apppreciated.
    Sorry for dumb questions. My profession lies withen the fungus growth.
    thanks again

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  12. OK,
    I performed this extraction process and have reached the step of evaporating the acidic water to leave the dmt and washing soda. The thing is, now that the liquid has evaporated there is purple crystals left on top of a pinkish white sludge underneath. Should I just wash the crystals or all of it with acetone?

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    1. Yes, you picked up impurity someplace. Keep washing until white

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  13. after the oil is removed and added back to the original basic bark mixture do you add 1 gram of sodium carbonate for every gram again?

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    1. No. That would be to add extra sodium carbonate.

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  14. Do you also happen to have a recipe for Diethyltryptamine?

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  15. Mon dieu! An extraction written in (mostly) proper English! Clear, rather concise, and logical. I am eager to try this out. However, I will use Acacia Confusa root bark in lieu of Mimosa. Has anyone had success using A. Confusa? Any tips or alterations to the method for using Acacia? Peace to all, and thank you Spiceman!

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  16. To clarify, the oil is to be extracted and mixed with acidic water after the heating process correct? This process should then be repeated three times and then, separate the oil from the bark mush a final time which then needs to be made basic using a baking wash 1:3 per cups of oil used? Does that sound right? Thank you!

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    1. Yes, at this point, it's in oil. When you acidify it transfers to aqueous phase. He says to reuse this oil to pick up more from sludge, OK? You only add the base if you want freebase, I'm going for crystals

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  17. my root bark(powdered), sodium carbonate and water/oil mixture is not separating so i cant extract the oil. it seems to be frothy any ideas???? please

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    1. I'd add more oil, it's to be back extracted from oil anyway but it'll give you better vision

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  18. Love u Spiceman -TRB

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  19. hi, can nail polisher which contains acetone (and some other substances) be used?

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    1. Only completely pure acetone should be used, you don't want adulterants.

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    2. Tell me what the ph balance should be for the acid water. I wanna make sure I'm doing this right to maximize yields.

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    3. Tell me what the ph balance should be for the acid water. I wanna make sure I'm doing this right to maximize yields.

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  20. is anyone from syd that would like to try make this with a random cause I realy need help an have equip just not positive on how to make pure

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  21. Hello. Awesome page! This approach is so much cooler than the more chemical intensive approaches!

    What amount of calcium carbonate would you use in place of the sodium carbonate if using phalaris? Would it need stirred regularly to keep it in suspension since it's solubility in water is so much lower than sodium carbonate?

    Speaking of which, the greatly lower solubility in water would make the separation with alcohol much more pure when using calcium carbonate as your alkaline. Am I wrong? Wouldn't we be talking about the effective contamination at maximum being equivalent to hard water residue?

    Breathing in dust from lime can be bad for the lungs, but the same is true of sodium carbonate(more so in some ways). The total amount of contamination would presumably be much lower with the calcium carbonate and a high alcohol content, leaving a purer product, especially if you let it settle and then decant or otherwise separate.

    Lastly, would using phalaris aquaticus or brachystachys use the same measurements of plant matter to oil? Would it still be a half cup to every 50 grams of plant matter? Does anyone have data on the pH of the plant matter itself for any of these plants? Is all of it roughly the same pH, or is something like desmanthus illoensis more acidic than something like m. hostillis bark? Wouldn't the pH of the plant matter affect the amount of alkaline necessary?

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  22. Another question: Does DMT dissolve in vinegar or lemon juice? I am pretty sure lime does, so if DMT does not, that would offer another step of purification wouldn't it? Couldn't you just dissolve the lime in a weak acid and then filter it out?

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  23. Thus doesn't make sense where is the gallon of water introduced

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    1. You don't worry about that, add enough distilled to get a sludge as he describes

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  24. Can I use Bantocerious Caapi instead of Mimosa for this extraction? Thanks.

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    1. Read up idiot. BanISTERIOPSIS caapi contains harmalas, not dmt.
      Maybe figure out how to spell the plant name correctly & which ones have what alkaloid profiles before attempting to extract & use such a powerful substance.

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    2. Perhaps he meant to implicitly request the distinction of the tek's potential versatility with other useful vines or bark, along with their respective, primary alks? The tek does describe when the alkaloid is in a salt form, and it mentioned other methods of ingestion, some of which could require a MAOI.

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    3. How long does the overall extraction take?

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  25. how many grams of final product would be yielded with 100g of shredded root bark using this method?

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    1. This tek will not give you the maximum yeilds obtainable with good bark.
      100g High quality mhrb or acrb with a better tek could yeild you up to 2grams dmt.
      That is alot considering when smoked right 25mg can completely shatter reality & immerse you in another dimension for what feels like an more than a lifetime, that is until you come back, forget 85% of it and realize it's only been a couple minutes at most.

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  26. When mixing the root bark washing soda and water is it necessary to use acidic water for the heating process or just water?
    After heating process for 1-2 hours I understand the oil should separate from the sludge, yes. Then extracted using baster and added to acidic water to separate crystals.

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    1. No, no, no! At this point you are basic and want it so. Use plain distilled water

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  27. Ok I followed the process using plain water and got only a sludge and the oil did not separate so did I just not use enough water?

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    1. I think you have to cook it more till you only see the mixture of rb and washing soda. There should be only the oil there. That's where the "goodies" are.

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    2. I think you have to cook it more till you only see the mixture of rb and washing soda. There should be only the oil there. That's where the "goodies" are.

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  28. What does the ph balance of the acid water have to be?

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  29. What does the ph balance of the acid water have to be?

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  30. I have cooked it well and watched over it however the oil does not seperate from the solution any suggestions?

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    1. It takes awhile but it will be obvious. You need to stir it. Hold it up to light and tilt it, the oil will float on top, it is very visible

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  31. This procedure is INCORRECT and will not work! Adding base in step 1 totally nullifies entire process. Acid with pH < 2 has to be used to extract it from bark

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  32. I just wrote up a retraction of the above but it disappeared!

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    1. I did further research and basic solution can extract it. Sorry for for above where I said it's incorrect. I believe it's possible although I didn't get any yield when I tried it (see notes below and I only had 23 gm).
      1. I'm wondering if pH is high enough in 1st step? It's difficult to extract with non-polar solvents unless pH is well above 12. I guess the heat shifts the equilibrium. The pH of carbonate can only get to about 11.4.
      2. The 2-phase solution has a real bad emulsion at the interface that doesn't settle out. I've heard slow agitation and high pH prevent it.
      3. I messed up and had "black" carryover during decant. It even went through a filter! I should have pored it back and decanted again, you don't want to carryover aqueous either, there's enough carbonate to drive acid pH up in separatory funnel.
      4. I think the pH is not low enough in acid back extract. I wouldn't dilute vinegar (acetic acid) and use it straight getting a pH of about 2.3. Ideally, the pH < 2.
      5. I believe I used to high of a heat setting on electric range.

      I hope this helps and again, sorry for misinfo above. I'll check this periodically and answer any questions or comments.

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    2. I wondered about diluting the vinegar as most store bought vinegar is already diluted to 5%. Adding more water would dilute it to the point where pH is no where near 2. Correct?

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  33. when you say this is not the best method for extraction, are you talking about quantity or quality?

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    1. They're referring to quantity. The quality is great. I got pure white/slightly yellow. There are a few things that I tweaked though. The major one being I used 5% distilled vinegar and I did NOT dilute it at all. I poured straight from the bottle as 5% distilled vinegar has a 2.4 pH. Adding more water would dilute it to an ineffective(higher) pH.

      Also, it's very important to not let the root bark/sodium carbonate/water/vegetable oil boil. Keep it as hot as possible, but not boil. The oil will cook off. This happened to me and probably affected my yield. It will also make it easier to retrieve the vegetable oil from the root bark paste/mixture. A turkey baster is about as good as it's going to get for this step.

      When you remove the vegetable oil from the acid/water(again, I only used vinegar here) make sure to get ALL OF THE VEGETABLE OIL OUT. It will haunt you in the freebase extraction phase if you don't as the oil does NOT evaporate with the alcohol/acetone(either works) and those little singular oil bubbles will rejoin and form an evil puddle of oil on top of your DMT.

      I used 91% Isopropyl from wally world and it worked great. I've done the chemical process, using some bunk root bark. I prefer this process, despite it taking a bit longer I do enjoy not having the kitchen smell like Naphtha for an entire day.

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    2. So this would be an acceptable substitute for Cyb' Hybrid?

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  34. When Separating the oil and water mixture I got small amounts of acidic water mixed with the oil I placed back in with the root bark mix. Does this matter?

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  35. Can someone please explain the washing process? Do you dissolve all of the washing soda in acetone and then let the acetone evaporate?

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    1. You dissolve your washing soda/dmt powder into acetone or iso alcohol. You then siphon the alcohol into a separate container leaving behind the powder. You let this liquid evaporate and you will be left with dmt once it's fully dried.

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  36. How many grams of final product are people getting? Say for every 50grams of root bark?

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  37. depending on the quality of plant, but probably 100- 300 mg per 50 grams. 500 mg would be lucky.

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  38. The vinegar is taking much longer to evaporate. I didn't dilute the vinegar with any water. I've had it on a hot plate for about 9 hours. The vinegar/washing soda mix had been at about 130 - 175 degrees. Is it supposed to take that long? I had 3 cups of vinegar after I extracted all the oil from the vinegar. 100 grams of ACRB was used. I used 25 grams of non ionized rock salt. I heard it was supposed to increase the yield. Anyways just wanted to give all the details. I'll post to let everyone know how it turned out...

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  39. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  40. Why isnt my comment staying up?

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  41. Is it true non diluted vinegar is needed?
    I understand you want a low PH and adding the already dilluted vinegar to water seems like a bit of a mistep, or it might just be conserving vinegar and still be getting the job done, i mean i mean in theroy does this work?

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  42. I see that this is kitchen direction, it I have plenty of NaOH and hexane, would it do the same thing?

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    1. yes with precautions, boiling naptha...

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  43. Ok, I ran the whole process had the said salt crystals, went to base, and weirdly it appeared like there was crystals forming in my water and my washing soda doubled. But come to cleaning and I pulled about a half gram of brown scrapings smoked it and nada. Is it possible I ph'd to high or to low and my dmt is still in my soda? This my second run with same results, what am I doing wrong?

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  44. Will sodium Bi-carbonate work in place of sodium carbonate? If so would the volumes/measurements used be the same? Cheers

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  45. This tek didnt work, swim followed directions precisely, end product produced crystal clear crystals that would melt but wouldnt produce any smoke/vapor and left a washing soda residue when the crystal evaporated and thats after 3 washes. Waste of bark, very dissapointing for swim who really wanted to try dmt. Swim should of done the chemical extraction as this one seemed too good to be true. Has anyone gotten this to work?

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    1. I agree this tek was beyond useless. I wasted 100g and a lot of time/money.

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    2. No luck here either, it's Samoset to be an acid boil first in other instructions I think the process is flawed

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  46. I have 50g of powedered MHRB coming in the mail, I'm confused what type of pot I should use because it says to only use 1/2 cup of oil in the mixture but how would you get such a small amount of oil off the mix when it's covering such a large surface area? any hitnts on the size shape of pan I should use? how did you guys get it off cleanly? also, I have a nice induction cooktop that I can set the exact temp I want. what would be the ideal temp to steep this at without burning it or cooking it or whatever? if someone could point me to a pic of a pot style that would work well I'd appreciate it and any hints on how they siphoned off the oil. tyvm. this is my first time trying this but I only paid $30 for the MHRB and the rest should only cost me less than 20 bucks so I figure if it ends up not working I'm just outta luck. thanks for any tips.

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  47. After combining the 3 mixtures of acidic water, is that the DMT? What is it going to look like? Will there be crystals? do I just combine them and then I am finished?

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  48. This method is useless and should be deleted. I wasted 100g and 48 hours of my life. Food grade my ass, give me chemicals and maybe I'll have more than a 60 second trip. This was a retarded waste of money and time. DON'T TRY THIS METHOD.

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  49. How to remove only the liquid and leave the insoluble washing soda behind? Cheesecloth?

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  50. This person has no clue what hes talking about

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  51. Could I use acacia acuminata as a substitute?

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  52. Where would I get this Bark From???

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  53. Where would I get this Bark From????

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  54. We offer bundled oil or mass oil conveyance. Our oil is NOT "Hydrogenated" oil. The FDA has a halfway restriction on hydrogenated oils. We have the finest cooking oils around, all our oil is "Expeller Pressed" and is refined to the most noteworthy quality yielding you a more drawn out oil life for the same expense.

    • Is Guaranteed to Increase the Life of Your Cooking Oil Filtration

    • Will Increase the Quality of Your Fried Food

    • Will Reduce Accidents and Insurance Claims

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  55. Can I use this process on Canary grass

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  56. No one should doubt this method at all or have the nerve to put it down it is an only hope for some people and is safe and sustainable.

    I followed it step for step using A.confusa powder and ive used this tek successfully now 3 times and it is the only tek ive ever done for dmt! haha.

    The end product isn't great appearance wise because A.confusa contains Nmt which stays in a gooey oily state and never crystalizes with a method such as this so I was left with this brown sludge but don't be fooled this stuff has some kick to it, from 100g of premium inner Acrb powder I managed to use the sludge to make around 7g of strong changa, it was near impossible to weigh the sludge because you would lose some on every surface it touches so I just pulled it from the acetone into a separate dish let that evap then used iso to pull a cleaner pull and leave behind any washing powder residue and either use that iso for a herb mix or leave it to evap leaving you with the concentrated brown spice. IMO it works better for changa, better combustion rate and even better through a vape. All in all this tek is great and is a invaluable tool for begginers.

    Don't be so quick to put it down it depends heavily on the quality of your raw material, ive pulled more from 100g of powder than I have from 1kg of lesser quality, gotta use the good stuff, Peace.

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  57. We offer bundled oil or mass oil conveyance. Our oil is NOT "Hydrogenated" oil. The FDA has a halfway restriction on hydrogenated oils. We have the finest cooking oils around, all our oil is "Expeller Pressed" and is refined to the most noteworthy quality yielding you a more drawn out oil life for the same expense.

    • Is Guaranteed to Increase the Life of Your Cooking Oil Filtration

    • Will Increase the Quality of Your Fried Food

    • Will Reduce Accidents and Insurance Claims

    ReplyDelete
  58. I added extra oil, (1/4 cup maybe) after barley being able to catch any with the pipette the first time. (used 1 cup for 100g of MHRB) Now my basic bark mix is WAY to liquidy. I've had it steeping for some time now, and it's not turning solid again. So i assume this isnt water causing the problem. Should i add more Sodium carbonate or just remove oil? No MHRB left. Any quick, helpful replies would seriously be appreciated.

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    1. Also, the oil is very dirty. It's impossible to use the pipette without catching a bunch of MHRB with it. Even tried a coffee filter, but it cant catch most of it. Kinda wish i had gone with the normal tek, but this seemed so much easier.

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  59. Will this same extraction work with Hawaiian Acacia Confusa Root Bark?

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  60. Once the acidic water has evaporated, and I've added the isopropyl alcohol, could I place the mixture on a hot plate to speed up the evaporation process?

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  61. Can someone post a recipe using 50 grams of powdered mimosa hostilis with the exact names and measurements of all the ingredients, i.e. Step one, step two, etc.? (without warnings, comments, or replacement/alternate suggestions). Just one recipe with the names of ingredients that absolutely work.

    I've tried the other tek 2x (naptha, etc.) with no luck.

    I've

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    1. hi what do you mean no luck with the other method?

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  63. Does this HAVE tto be powdered? IF so, how can I powder it the best?

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  64. Does this HAVE tto be powdered? IF so, how can I powder it the best?

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  65. Does this HAVE tto be powdered? IF so, how can I powder it the best?

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  66. I have cut it into 1/4" pieces and then I grind it in a coffee bean grinder until it's powdery.

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  67. I combined the three acidic waters, but still have oil on top. It's very hard to remove. Can I put the mixture in the fridge to solidify the oil and just take it off or would that be harmful?

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    1. Try coconut oil instead. It starts to solidify at 25 degrees celsius, making it easier to pull from the mixture just below room temperature. It also has a distinct bright white color when it solidifies, making it easier to see than other oils. Only thing to keep in mind is that coconut oil is more soluable in alcohol/acetone than most other vegetable oils, which makes it more important to separate it properly from the acid water & oil mixture

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  68. How about using DMSO instead of alcohol or acetone. Also, do you agree that Coconut oil would work and be easier to pull from the mixture?

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  69. Would a crock pot work to keep the temperature just below boiling?

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  70. Did I do it right?

    http://imgur.com/YdidWSX

    Is that what dmt crystals look like?

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  71. Hey, In most other guides they say to freeze the bark 3 times before starting..
    is it still the way, or is it avoidable?
    i was gonna use acacia acuminata ? same same?

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  72. theoretically:

    1/2 gallon glass jars & sep funnel would help...

    freeze\thaw material 3 times, grind up as finely as possible
    four acid (vinegar) boils
    combine, filter, reduce to 1 quart
    defat (w/ coconut oil, shake, then cool & discard oil)
    base w/ excess lime
    four 1/4 cup sunflower oil pulls, combine oil
    four 1/2 cup vinegar\hot water pulls, combine vinegar solution
    reduce vinegar solution to ~1/2 quart (2 cups)
    stir in saturated sodium carb solution till color change stops
    let freebase alks settle
    filter, wash w/ distilled water
    evap
    scrape up & enjoy

    haven't tried this yet... i bet it would work...

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  73. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  74. ps:

    add salt (NaCl) to base stage (with lime), to help avoid emulsions

    more experienced sunflower oil extractors say 5+ oil pulls,
    3 vinegar pulls from each oil pull...

    from this topic..
    https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=55244

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