The Poor Mans DMT Extraction Guide

The Poor Mans DMT Extraction Guide - A 100% Fat Free, Food Safe, Grocery Store Solution to DMT Extraction

by Spiceman

Several members here at the nexus have been asking me for sometime now to give this method of extraction a write up. It has been criticized by some, but for a fact this method of DMT extraction is exceedingly easy, and yes, it works. We will be using mimosa hostilis root bark in this procedure.

Keep in mind, this is not the advanced clandestine chemist’s ideal method of extracting DMT, however, this method will prove invaluable to the person who finds him/herself in a position of not being able to procure solvents or chemicals that the ideal methods would call for. Also, it will no doubt be a valuable tool to those who want a completely food-safe extration. Lastly, this is for those who are new to this field, and who feel unsure about using or even attempting to procure chemicals such as naptha or lye.

The real beauty of this tek is that you probably already have everything you need to extract either freebase or a salt of DMT right there in your kitchen cabinet. If not, you can buy everything you need at your local corner grocery store. This tek, although making use of sometimes even the fattiest and crudest solvents, yeilds a 100% fat and oil free product. The final product, every time, will be fine snow-white crystals or snow-white crystalline powder (if freebased, certain salts are hygroscopic and are always in a gooey state. Also, every type of oil has not been tried, so it’s possible that diffrent oils could pick up other alkaloids "jungle" that will tint the end product.) This tek is workable and almost impossible to screw up by even the most chemistry-naive extractor.

Although somewhat void of exact amounts, volumes, and measurements, it should give a strong enough general overview to carry anyone through.

What you'll need:

Sodium carbonate (washing soda) – This is a stronger base than baking soda but can be made by baking baking soda itself in the oven at about 350° for a couple hours to make sodium carbonate. It can also be purchased in most grocery stores right beside the baking soda, labelled as washing soda.

Note: Lime, aka calcium carbonate may also be used to work with this tek. Keep everything the same and simply substitute lime for the soda if so desired. Results will be the same.

90% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, ethyl alcohol, or acetone, (methyl works but voids the food safe aspect, however it is completely safe if evapporated entirely.) Less than 90% alcohol will also work, but will result in small amounts of sodium carbonate remaining in the end product. This is completely harmless, and can be cleaned by repeating the process a few times. Acetone is prefferable here.

Any type of vegetable oil – Canola oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, etc. A mixture of these will work as well, (even lard—aka animal fats—would work here if kept hot). All of the above oils have been tested and did an excellent job of dissolving freebase DMT. The only oils used "fully" in the procedure was canola oil, sunflower oil, mixed vegetable oil, and hot lard. All of them passed with flying colors. The lard actually worked beautifully, but you have to keep it hot. Traditional solvents—naptha, ether, etc. —work great here but voids the food-safe aspect. If you want to use them, you can.

Some type of acid – Such as lemon juice, vinegar, vitamin c, etc.

Procedure:

Mix 1 gram of sodium carbonate for every gram of powdered mimosa hostilis root bark you have in a large glass or metal pan (glass is better). Slowly add water to the bark and carbonate mixture while stirring, until a thin pasty consistency is achieved. At this point, we have to ensure the reaction can take place smoothly, and that the heat can flow through the mixture somewhat evenly, by adding enough water. At the same time, we want to keep it a little on the thick side (basically, it’s easier to handle this way). Just eyeball it. The consistency of thin oatmeal is perfect.

What you should have now is a somewhat thick sludge made up of water, bark powder, and sodium carbonate. For every 50 grams of bark used, add ½ cup of your vegetable oil to this mix. Set this mixture on low heat and bring up the temperature until it is hot, and steams when stirred.

This mixture should be kept hot, but should not boil. Once it is hot, maintain the temperature for 1-2 hours. During that time, the mixture should be well and very gently stirred every few minutes. Water should be periodically added to maintain the consistency of the sludge. Just don't let it dry out, you want it to have the same moisture content during the entire process. The heat, time, and agitation during this phase spurs on the reaction, ensuring that the weak base actually does the work and freebases all the alkaloids.

Note: If you think you got your original sludge too thin by adding too much water at any point, you can use the above phase to reduce it. If it’s too thin, allow it to "steep" until the desired consistency is reached.

Mix up some acidic water. For every gallon of water, add 1.5 cups of vinegar or 1 cup lemon juice, and measure out an equal amount of this acidic water for the amount of oil that you have. If you have 2.5 cups oil, you'll need 2.5 cups acidic water, a little more won’t hurt, but probably wont help either.

When at least an hour has passed (two can’t really hurt), then use something like a turkey baster/dropper type device to remove the oil and add it to your acidified water. If your sludge is thick enough you can probably pour the oil off. Stir gently for several minutes. The goodies will attach to the acid in the water forming that particular salt, migrating to the water, leaving the oil on top.

After several minutes of mixing with the acidic water, the oil is removed and added back to the original basic bark mixture. This process is repeated a total of three times, each time using the same oil and each time "steeping" for an hour or so. Also, each time the oil is removed, fresh acidic water is used, and at the end, combined.

If a salt of DMT is desired, say for oral use, then at this point after the oil is removed, the water should be allowed to evaporate and the remaining material washed with acetone to yeild beautiful salted DMT crystals.

If freebase DMT is the goal, then at this point the acidic water is made basic by adding more of our sodium carbonate. I'd say about a cup for every three cups acidic water you have should do it.

The water is now evaporated. This proccess is slow and requires a bit of patience if you are doing a larger extraction. Use a small fan and apply low heat to speed up the evaporation proccess. At this point you will be left with freebase DMT and “washing soda”. This material is scraped up and placed into a small dish.

Here, one must retrieve the freebase DMT from the washing soda. There are several ways of doing this. Acetone is prefferable here, however most people don't have acetone handy. Instead, we can use high proof alcohol. 90% isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) will do great here and is available at your local Wal-Mart. 70% can be used but keep in mind that the 30% water present will carry over a good amount of the washing soda. This, of course, is completely harmless but undesirable. This can be somewhat remedied by repeating the washes with alcohol.

Completely dissolve the powder in acetone, rubbing alcohol or high proof whiskey (anything other than Everclear will leave a taste). The washing soda will be left behind, and at this point your goodies are dissolved in the acetone or whatever solvent you used here. Collect the liquid, being careful to leave the washing soda powder behind. Rinse this powder three times and combine the liquid from all three rinses.

Use a small fan to quickly evaperate the combined solvent rinses to leave behind beautifully white DMT crystals, if a good solvent was used at the end. A small amount of washing soda are the only impurities that could be present. The weaker your alcohol (if used in place of acetone), the more washing soda will be pulled along with the DMT. Harmless, but indeed undesirable. 90% rubbing alcohol from Wal-Mart or the dollar store (at least in the states) will do just fine.

The purity of the end product can be improved by redissolving in solvent and leaving behind anything insoluble, and re-evaporating to leave behind purer crystals each time.

This certainly is not the best method for extracting DMT, as was previously stated. However, it does work. This now makes it possible for many people who would not, or could not previously attempt an extraction—for any of several reasons—to now do so. Thanks to those who inspired me to write this up, you know who you are! Peace and Godspeed!